Traditional Brocade for Occupational Independence
Keiko Watanabe
The Nippon Foundation
The Nippon Foundation
Indepth Articles
[Sep. 18, 2009]
Project Reach: Kyoto
(Adapted from the Japanesese by James Huffman)
A nonprofit organization in Kyoto is helping to establish occupational independence for those with disabilities, through the traditional Japanese crafts of Nishijin brocade and Kyoto braiding. With support from the Nippon Foundation, a Nishijin Workshop, put on by the Kyoto Nishijin-Kai produces popular hand-braided items such as mobile-phone straps and key chains made of 100% silk. It then sells these articles at locations such as the Kinkakuji and Toji temples, gift shops in Kyoto hotels, and department stores at Kyoto Station.
The Nishijin Workshop began its activities in 2004 as a day-service facility for those with cognitive disabilities, for whom it provides a variety of welfare services. Today, its activities include those intended to help the disabled find employment and living care. Making Nishijin brocade requires about 30 steps. The traditional method of creating Nishijin works is organized like a relay, with each individual household in charge of a single process. The goal of the Nishijin Workshop is to train people to be able to cover three of these processes: spinning, warping and weaving. Despite the time required to develop a high level of skill, participants tackle the challenge of improving their skills each day, seeking to achieve an end product worthy of recognition even within the greater Nishijin brocade field.
Braided Cords and Coasters
Braiding Cords
Across Japan, traditional cottage industries now face many challenges posed by the aging of their artisans and thinning ranks of the next generation of practitioners. Nishijin brocade is no exception. Factors underlying this include the significant effort that must be invested to achieve the skills needed and the low resulting income. Reports suggest that many of the Kyoto braiding works sold in souvenir shops and elsewhere are produced mechanically or in China, to reduce costs, while the number of authentic Japanese works made by hand has declined significantly.
Chairman Takashi Kawai of the Kyoto Nishijin-Kai, whose father was a Nishijin brocade artisan, became familiar with the craft at a young age. But rather than taking up the trade, he entered the welfare field, where he spent 20 years. However, he says, he found working in a large facility too restrictive and resolved to establish a nonprofit to both realize his ideal for welfare services and at the same time restore the lost art of Nishijin brocade.
Hand Loom
In addition to Nishijin brocade, the workshop also provides extracurricular activities. Work begins in the morning, only after participants have had a chance to play catch or badminton, do calisthenics and take part in vocal exercises. On days off, the facility provides many recreational activities such as table tennis, boating, and surf fishing. Kawai describes his dream with a smile: “Personal development is very important. My hope is that those using the facility will achieve sound growth both mentally and physically through an ideal balance of work and play, while also enjoying a wide range of experience. I want them to do their work with a feeling of cooperation with their colleagues. I think it would be wonderful if they could play a role in learning this traditional Japanese skill and passing it on to subsequent generations.”